I pored over the websites of editorial services. I narrowed my choices to three, heard back from two and chose one, who not only offered sound advice and wise counsel but became a dear friend. We worked on the proposal. My father died. We kept working. Her father died. Neither of us were prepared for or expected this and these events profoundly affected our lives. We had much more than the project in common. We kept working. Of the many agents to whom I sent the query, a large percentage asked to see the proposal. On the basis of the proposal and sample writing, I received only rejections. This told me the subject was of interest; the writing wasn’t good enough.

My brilliant and thoughtful editor suggested that I take time out to learn the craft of writing. She was and is a cheerleader for me and buoys me with her savvy and good sense. She says what I was trying to do in the manuscript is advanced and difficult. The night I received my final rejection–this time for the entire manuscript, and from an agent who really, really wanted to like it–I was attending a reading by Heather Sellers at Schuler’s, a local independent bookstore. I’d read the author’s work and loved it. When I saw her onstage, I knew she was the teacher for me. Charming, funny, vibrant, brilliant, and real. In her own book, she had solved the problems I was having. Plus, she was a writing teacher, full-time. I asked her if she took on students outside of the college and she said “yes.”

We started working together in January 2011. I can’t summarize everything I’ve learned from Heather. Mostly what I’m learning is to get out of my own way. (That’s usually the problem, no matter what I do!) In writing, this means getting out of my head and into my body. Telling the truth–not the truth I THINK is the truth, but the real truth–the truth I don’t know until I start writing. Smashing the roadblocks I put in front of me (I can’t talk about THAT, I can’t hurt that person’s feelings, I don’t want people to know THAT about me!) and diving deep inside. Not knowing. To not know what I will find or what it means is an exciting journey, somewhat like my hike. I am progressing.

I am deeply grateful to Heather, R. my editor; and T. my first mentor, friend, and “muse”. I am lucky to have such a great support team, none of whom know each other. Heather’s secret for writing success? “Butt in chair.” In other words, WRITE.

Since the brilliant Lily got into every college she applied to (and some she didn’t!), she had a tough choice to make. She selected Rochester Institute of Technology in upstate NY, near Lake Ontario.

Last weekend was Brick City Homecoming, a city-wide event. The campus was filled with events and dinners, pumpkin-pitches and sports. All, of course, in the pouring rain.

The highlight of Friday night was meeting her sorority sisters at Alpha Sigma Alpha. I’m happy for Lily that she made that choice.

Saturday’s highlight was a talk by Michael J. Fox. I’ve never actually seen him in anything because I don’t watch TV and have missed the Back to the Future movies. I love talks, books, movies that make you laugh and cry at the same time and Michael J. Fox was a master. Shaky because of his Parkinson’s disease, with slightly slurred speech, he commanded the audience with his warmth, wit, and wisdom. He told this story:

One of his frustrations with his children was that they would bring him issues that he felt they should be able to solve for themselves. When they would go on and on about how difficult this or that problem was, he told them a story he had read. Short version is: in Rwanda, during a terrible flood, a woman was about to give birth. She could wait for help and be swept away forever, or climb a nearby tree. In labor, in pain, she climbed the tree. There she gave birth to her child, alone. True story. So whenever they start whining, he reminds them: “A woman had a baby in a TREE!”

Square Top Mountain at Green River Lakes

Gottago crossing plateau

During the first week of September, I enjoyed a backpack in the Wind Rivers with my friends Linda (Gottago) Jeffers of southern California and Lorna and Carmen Bria of Lander, WY. Fred, the Ultimate Trail Angel, and Zipper T. Dog, my outfitter of choice, shepherded us to and from the beginning and ending trailheads.

Aside from a deluge of rain the first night out, the weather was ideal. Cool, not windy, only a few hardy mosquitoes who didn’t even warrant a squirt of Deet. The beauty-to-effort ratio was the highest I’ve ever experienced: every step was gorgeous and brought a new view. The biggest challenge was finding breath at 10,500 feet, where most of the hike took place.

Bear canisters were required and bear spray was recommended. We carried both. We saw no bears, but I would not be surprised if bears saw us.

Carmen, Lorna, Fred, Zipper and I hiked to the waterfall in Sinks Canyon prior to our hike. Zipper took an unplanned slide down a rock into a pool--luckily it was a short slide.

Wind Rivers from Allen's SuperCub

The Sinks in Sinks Canyon (where the river disappears underground)

The Rise (where the water reappears). Sinks Canyon is outside of Lander, WY. These are the biggest trout I've ever seen.

Lorna at our first break on the Continental Divide Trail

These high plateaus and meadows were such a surprise at 10,500 feet!

Pack string at Dad's Lake. Once we passed Marms Lake, we did not see any other hikers/packers/hunters. Except for Dwayne. Stand by.

Our first lunch spot.

One of the many high meadows on the Continental Divide Trail (Fremont)

Gottago and Carmen

High plateau (above 10,000 feet)

Gottago crossing North Fork River

Around every corner is another beautiful lake

Lorna and Carmen hiking

Lorna crossing river

Carmen and Lorna with rain gear

Dwayne and his cousin Mike. Dwayne is from Florida and has lived in the wild since 2008. "Like the critters." He is about to eat a mushroom he found near the trail. He hiked the Appalachian Trail last year. He is without a doubt the most interesting character I have found on any trail.

Hat Pass. Lorna and Gottago.

Looking south from Hat Pass. Smoke from a fire in the Gros Ventres mountains has kept the Wind Rivers in a slight haze.

Sunrise on the Pole Creek Trail. We left the CDT and exited about 10 miles out on the Pole Creek Trail, which was a great trail with gorgeous scenery. I'm convinced every bit of the Wind Rivers is as beautiful as the next.

WInd Rivers from the Pole Creek Trail--about 5 miles from Elkhart Park.

Huge trout at Green River Lakes near the bridge. The fishermen said they get out of there by dusk because of the grizzlies. The campground was closed a few months ago because of grizzly raids.

Sod roof on an abandoned line shack at Green River Lakes

Sunset at Green River Lakes. Amazing trout fishing here!

DIRT RICH is my article

I’m excited and proud of my very first article for pay: DIRT RICH, in the Summer 2011 issue of RANGE magazine.

Here is a link to the article: DIRT RICH0001

RANGE has a unique mission–it is dedicated to the preservation of the American cowboy and targeted to issues in the West. The magazine is a labor of love for the editor, CJ Hadley.

Here  is a link to an interview with CJ. She’s a fascinating person, full of passion and commitment. I hope to write more for RANGE and many other publications, too!

One of these days, I will update the information about my writing journey. I learn more every day. I am lucky to have found three separate and brilliant mentors: an editor, a teacher, and a “muse”. They each contribute to my growth and development in different ways. Much more on that later….

HA!

I had a full-time job just figuring out a place to stay (a self-solving problem once I got on the C&O as I just stayed where Ted and Lynne stayed, which prompted us to decide I was stalking them), something to eat, getting me (and my clothes) clean, the next day’s route, updating the journal and uploading pictures.

Here are some of my “after bike ride” thoughts:

Staying in motels instead of camping was absolutely the way to go. It was definitely more expensive, but for me, worth it. Starting each day clean and rested was a huge plus. I learned last summer that a bike trip is a road trip. I do not at all like public campgrounds. I love sleeping in the wilderness when hiking and always get a good night’s sleep. I do not get a good night’s sleep in a city park or public campground. Plus having a shower at night was heaven, especially on those hot and humid days.

The only downside was that at a B&B, you are on the host’s schedule. That means if breakfast is served at 7:30, you aren’t getting on the bike until 8:30 most probably. That was the ONLY drawback of the lovely B&Bs. My preference would be to get up at 5, eat at 5:30 and be biking by 6, particularly on the hottest days. But everything’s a trade-off…and I am certainly not complaining…because I had great food, great company, and great hosts.

Google Bicycling Directions: I relied way too much on them. I should have done more research. There is no “pavement” filter, so I found myself on dirt/gravel roads often, particularly in Michigan. I also got some extra hills and miles because Google decided that was preferable to the higher-traffic highway in Ohio. I would have made better time on the not-higher-traffic highway in Ohio. Also, Mr. Google has incorporated some mythical bike routes into its maps. I ended up on a very busy, dangerous road between Stow and Kent, OH trying to follow the google route. There were other places where there just is no bike path at all, although Google believes there is or should be!

People: Unfailingly wonderful and helpful.

Favorite Moment: Bicycling behind Lynne on the last day, listening to her sing “The Rain in Spain” from My Fair Lady in a sweet, clear soprano as she biked along.

Favorite Scenery: Cuyahoga Falls National Park

Favorite Lunch: Clearview Inn, Bath, OH

Coolest Piece of Gear: Pocket Chainsaw (Ted’s gear)

Best Thing About C&O Towpath: Shade!!!!!

Best Thing About Great Allegheny Passage Path: 23 miles of downhill from Eastern Continental Divide to Cumberland, MD

Cutest Town: Toss-up between West Newton, PA and Confluence, PA

Mileage: It’s just a matter of how long you want to stay on the bike. I was off the bike by mid-afternoon usually. You can easily shorten a trip like this by doing longer miles in a day and you can do longer miles by staying on the bike longer. My goal wasn’t to do this trip as fast as it could be done or to prove I can bike 100 miles in a day (I know I can). It was to have fun.

Mission accomplished!!!

Swains Lock, within a few miles of the end

Harpers Ferry, WV to Washington, D.C.

Miles: 62.1  Total: 786.9

2010 Total:   2814.1                 2011 Total: 786.9        Total Coast-to-Coast: 3,601

Today was an exceptional day because I spent it biking with Ted and Lynne, new friends. After spending many days alone on this trip, it was great to meet people compatible in speed and attitude and to be able to spend time together doing something we mutually enjoy.

I discovered this morning that the RR footbridge is part of the Appalachian Trail. Imany hikers in town but they all looked very, very young. It felt weird to bike past them and to be reminded of what it always felt like to arrive in a town when on a long-distance hike.

The day flew by, even though we got a very late start (almost 9 a.m.) and it was hot and humid. We had discussed taking an alternate, the Old Dominion Trail, in case of muddy C&O trail, but I was grateful we stayed on the C&O: more shade, good tread,in cooler temperatures.

At one point we met a barrier–a fallen tree that blocked the trail. Ted whipped out his trusty hand-chainsaw and quickly dispatched the tree. We pulled it off the trail so others could get through more safely. Very considerate! And it didn’t take that much time to do. Ted also carried my bike down the stairs; I honestly don’t think I could have done it without his help.

We had a late lunch at the refreshments stand at Great Falls and made it to D.C. by 5:00. The noise and traffic and crowds were jarring after so many days on the trail. At Great Falls, the NPS had rigged up a canal boat that was pulled along by mules. People were dressed in period costumes. It was all very low-key but kind of cool, especially with the juxtaposition of bicyclists passing the mules.

After we got cleaned up, the three of us connected later for dinner to celebrate the end of our trip.

I’ll write more later about my overall thoughts on this trip, but the most valuable part of it was making new friends in Ted and Lynne.

And thank you for the emails and guestbook messages! They really gave me a lift at the end of each day.

Confluence of Shenandoah and Potomac RIvers, Harpers Ferry

Lynne and Ted starting out on the C&O this morning

Ted

Lynne, so disappointed at Whites Ferry--NO FOOD!!!! However, she yogi'd snacks for us from a woman waiting for the ferry.

Great Falls. Nearby, in the canal, they use mules to pull the boat along as a "living history" exhibit.

Ted and Lynne in Georgetown

Me in Georgetown

Grand-dad of all turtles

Hancock, MD to Harpers Ferry, WV

Miles: 66.9  Total: 724.8

Great day on the trail! I’ve met a wonderful couple from Pittsburgh–Ted and Lynne. We joke that I am their stalker because I end up staying where they do each night. The first night was an accident–it’s been on purpose ever since. Since I’m doing this on my own, it is great to have companionship and someone to share the day’s events with. I hope to bike with them tomorrow.

I biked alone all day–not by design but it just worked out that way. I started off earlier than the others from our B&B and took short breaks. Today featured a 6-mile off-trail detour of hills and sun that was a bit challenging.

My final challenge came at the entrance to Harpers Ferry. You get to town via a RR bridge that is a bike/hike path. But to get to the bridge, you have to carry your bike up a metal spiral staircase. No joke. I couldn’t do it. I took my bags off and still couldn’t do it–too steep. Luckily, four guys who stayed at the B&B last night happened along at just the right moment and took my bike up for me. I have no idea how I’ll get it down tomorrow, but maybe I’ll get lucky again.

I am staying at a FANTASTIC B&B called the Laurel Lodge.

Mule house on the lock

The locks are filled in now

Dam #5

Here, the bike trail goes along the stone wall next to the Potomac

This is the RR bridge that you take the spiral staircase up to. Painful end to the day.

Miles: 59.5  Total: 657.9

What made Kansas almost unbearable last year was the combination of high heat, punishing humidity, and 20-30 mph headwinds. Today I had the heat and humidity (although not nearly as bad, because the towpath is shaded) but no wind at all. That makes a huge difference. For most of the day, the bicycling was pleasant, until the heat and humidity kicked in about 3 hours from the end of my biking day.

I saw lots of deer, a giant turtle, smaller turtles, a blacksnake, and a million little chipmunks and squirrels. Following the towpath is easy: the canal is on the left and the Potomac is on the right. The tread is rough,generally, with roots and puddles, large rocks. But it’s fun, and you have to pay attention every minute.

Note: Because of internet connection problems, I lost the rest of this entry, including all the pictures. I will update the next time I have a signal. Harpers Ferry tonight hopefully, and then D.C. tomorrow!

All these towns are bicycle-friendly

I see many deer in the mornings

This tunnel is almost a mile long. You walk along the upper path--the canal is on the bottom. A fence separates you.

Stone stairs

This is the start of the Western Maryland Rail Trail--11 miles of pavement into Hancock.It parallels the C&O and felt like a superfreeway after the jarring C&O.